Most men put their silk shirts away when the clocks go back. We think that is the wrong way round. Autumn and winter are when silk looks its best: under a jacket, beneath a coat, in the low light of a restaurant or a December party.
Below is how we style silk for the colder months at our Knightsbridge boutique, the new silk shirts that have just arrived, and the practical questions customers ask us most.
Why silk works when it is cold
Silk has a reputation as a summer fabric. In practice it earns its place all year.
It layers without bulk
A silk shirt is fine and smooth, so it slides under a blazer, a knit or an overcoat without bunching at the shoulders or sleeves.
It is comfortable indoors
Winter means moving between cold streets and warm rooms. Silk is a natural fibre that feels comfortable against the skin in both.
It catches low light
The natural sheen of silk comes alive under evening lighting, which is exactly when most of your winter occasions happen.
It carries colour
Deep seasonal shades such as burgundy, navy and black look richer in silk than in almost any other shirting fabric.
Three ways to wear silk this season
Under tailoring. The easiest route. A printed silk shirt under a plain charcoal, navy or black jacket gives you an outfit that is dressed but not formal. Keep the jacket simple and let the shirt carry the pattern.
With knitwear. A fine merino or cashmere crew neck over a silk shirt, collar out, is a relaxed weekend look for London in November. The contrast between matt knit and glossy silk is what makes it work.
On its own, for the evening. For dinners and parties, a silk shirt worn open at the neck with dark tailored trousers is often all you need. Choose a darker print, or white silk with black detailing, so it reads as evening wear.
The new silk shirts
Three arrived this month; two are long-standing favourites that suit the season. All are made in Italy and in stock now.
New this month · Pure silk
Burgundy & Ivory Paisley Silk Mason Shirt
Paisley in burgundy, ivory, gold and warm brown, with ivory silk at the collar and cuffs and small AG dragons embroidered in deep burgundy. These are the colours of the season, which is why this is the shirt we reach for first when the evenings draw in. Wear it under a charcoal or black jacket and let the print do the talking.
£1,380
Shop this shirt
New this month · Silk blend
Blue & Gold Silk Blend Printed Shirt
An abstract print in ivory and deep blue with a soft, luminous finish, set off by a pure silk collar and cuffs in the darkest blue of the pattern. Because the trim matches the deepest tone in the print, it sits naturally with navy, charcoal or black. The most versatile of the new silk Masons, and an easy first silk shirt.
£1,380
Shop this shirt
New this month · Evening
White Alloro Custom-Print Silk Shirt
From across a room it reads as a plain white silk shirt. Up close, a tonal AG monogram appears in the weave as the light moves over it. Black piping traces the collar, placket and cuffs, finished with black hexagonal AG buttons. With black tailoring or a dinner jacket, this is the party-season shirt.
£1,180
Shop this shirt
Milan collar · Crystal buttons
Black Alloro Custom-Print Silk Shirt
The darker counterpart: black silk with the Alloro print woven through it, a Milan collar, tonal metallic piping on the collar and cuffs, and crystal buttons. Worn on its own with black trousers it needs nothing else, which makes it a good choice for late dinners when a tie would be too much.
£1,180
Shop this shirt
Corleone collar · Pure silk
White & Black Floral Silk Corleone Shirt
An AG custom floral print on white silk, framed by a contrasting black collar and cuffs in the Corleone shape. Monochrome is the simplest way into printed silk in winter: it works under a black overcoat, alongside grey flannel and with dark denim on a weekend.
£1,380
Shop this shirtLooking after a silk shirt
A well-kept silk shirt lasts for years. Always check the care label first, but these habits help.
Have it professionally cleaned rather than putting it through a normal wash, especially printed silk. Hang it on a wide, shaped hanger so the shoulders keep their line, and give it space in the wardrobe so the fabric can breathe. If it creases, a cool iron on the reverse side or a steamer will bring it back. Keep perfume and deodorant away from the fabric until they are fully dry.
Questions customers ask us
Can you wear a silk shirt in winter?
Yes. Silk is light enough to layer under a jacket, knit or coat, and comfortable indoors when you move between cold streets and heated rooms. Darker prints and richer colours look especially good in the colder months.
What should I wear over a silk shirt in the cold?
A plain tailored jacket, a fine merino or cashmere knit, or a dark overcoat. Keep the outer layer simple so the silk remains the focus.
Is a silk shirt suitable for a Christmas party?
It is one of the best options. White silk with black detailing, such as the White Alloro, or a darker print like the Burgundy & Ivory Paisley, looks dressed for the occasion without needing a tie.
What is the difference between the Mason, Niki, Corleone and Milan collars?
They are Angelo Galasso collar shapes, each with its own proportions and character. The Mason is our signature; you can read more about it in our guide to the Mason shirt. The easiest way to choose is to try them on at the boutique.
Is pure silk better than a silk blend?
Pure silk has the softest handle and deepest lustre. A silk blend, like the Blue & Gold printed shirt, keeps much of that sheen and drape. For more on why silk is worth it, see why Italian silk shirts are a lasting investment.
Try them in Knightsbridge
Every shirt above is at our boutique, 8-10 Hans Road, London SW3 1RX: Monday to Saturday 11am (7pm, Sunday 12pm) 6pm. Or order online, with UK and international delivery.
Shop all shirts